By Bob Retzlaff
Post-Bulletin, Rochester MN 

BELFAST, Maine -- If you're interested in a laid-back vacation, it's hard to overlook the state of Maine, and it's particularly hard to overlook Waldo County, along the state's eastern seaboard.

Anchored -- and that's an accurate description given the area's seafaring past -- by the picturesque community of Belfast, Waldo County claims to contain "The Treasures of Coast and Countryside."

And there are plenty of treasures, with many supplied by Mother Nature: rolling hills and farmlands, a coastline that is a photographer's delight, attractive fishing villages, beautiful lakes and rivers, quaint Bed & Breakfasts and rental cabins often surrounded by dense woods, a plethora of antique and gift shops, plus an uninhabited island that draws hikers. And, well, you get the picture.

So how laid-back is Waldo County? It's said to be the only county in Maine without a big-box retailer -- the likes of Wal-Mart and Target.

Hub of Waldo County

Belfast, with a population of some 7,000, is the largest city and economic hub of Waldo County, and it was the focus of our long weekend in the area a few months back. Located on a hill overlooking the scenic tidal waters of Penobscot Bay, the city has nearly a 250-year tradition of seafaring.

It still has a working waterfront and there remains a host of well-kept sea captains' mansions -- along with a highly rated museum that also focuses on the industry's past. Lobster is king there, too -- you can't find a restaurant that doesn't feature lobster either for breakfast, lunch or dinner. At least we couldn't. Lobstering is a multimillion-dollar business for that area.

Belfast isn't all that laid-back, though. A few years ago it was named one of 100 "Culturally Cool Small Towns in America" by USA Today, mainly on the strength of the community's creativity, festivals, innovation and the arts. Community boosters say there are more than 19 galleries within walking distance of ship moorings and the docks.

Community flourishes despite hard times feel

Belfast has had its ups and downs economically. The city's prosperity was originally formed on ship building and commerce, along with farming. Then it became a blue-collar town, dominated by a four-story shoe factory. Later, poultry-processing added to the town's economy.

In the early 1960s, many felt the town had been dealt a death knell by the rerouting of U.S. 1 from downtown to the outskirts. Some years later, though, there was a rebirth as a combination of federal grants and private investment restored the community's past luster.

Arts flourished, notes the town's historian, the waterfront was revived, the railroad devoted itself to excursions and retirees and young professionals began buying the stately homes and brick and granite storefronts, artfully restoring them. And today, the community continues to flourish.

Bob Retzlaff is travel editor of the Post-Bulletin. He can be reached by phone at 285-7704.

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