By Julie Warner  

My daughter, Carolyn, and I found ourselves in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) after a leisurely trip from Cambodia on a motorized boat. Highlights of this cruise through the Mekong Delta included small villages of homes perched on stilts, children splashing in the water to find relief from the 100-plus-degree temperatures, and fishing boats that also served as permanent homes for four generations of families living together. As I watched, I wondered about their lives, so seemingly foreign to my own in Rochester.

My thoughts went back to the '60s and '70s, during the Vietnam War (called "the American War" by the Vietnamese). I was in high school when the war ended, and still have vivid memories of its effects on our country and my community.

During my short stay, several Vietnamese shared with me their experiences during this time in their lives. My heart ached for them as they told me how they suffered and starved, yet those I encountered were not bitter; rather, a common bond of friendship was built as we related our stories to one another.

Another connection that we experienced was their enjoyment of good, simple food. Pho, a traditional Vietnamese "comfort food," indeed brought me peace during our sometimes stressful travels.

In Ho Chi Minh City, we enjoyed a big bowl of the local version of pho while sitting on tiny stools on the sidewalk in front of a small pho shop. We faced an area favored by backpackers, a crazy amalgamation of people hawking produce, snacking on the sidewalk, zooming around on scooters, and even receiving pedicures -- our senses were overloaded! But the sense of tumult faded as we focused on the pho, and we realized that even though the setting was very different than our tranquil Minnesota home, this was indeed home for our fellow diners. As much as we might enjoy chicken soup and meatloaf here in the states, they relished their pho in what was to them a familiar and comfortable setting.

Pho originated in northern Vietnam, but each region has developed its own regional style. The basic version is a beef and noodle soup garnished with Thai basil, lime wedges, bean sprouts, cilantro, green onions and Thai chili peppers. The flavors are delicate, yet they also have a rich depth. One can garnish as he or she wishes, adding more or less lime or chili, making the soup fit their own comfort level and desired tastes.

"Pho' Bo"

Rice Noodle and Beef Soup

Fortunately, pho can be easily created right here in Rochester and shared with your family. Here is the recipe that I modified from "Vietnamese Dishes," a cookbook that I purchased in Vietnam.

Serves 6

8-10 cups beef broth

1 stalk lemon grass, bruised

1 star anise

1 2-inch piece of ginger

1/2 tsp. black or white pepper

1 T. salt

1 T. fish sauce

1-2 lbs. roasted beef tenderloin, thinly sliced

2 c. Bibb or Romaine lettuce, torn into pieces

6 T. green onion, chopped

1/2 cup onion, finely sliced

2 cups dry rice noodles

Bring beef stock to a boil. Add lemon grass, star anise, ginger, pepper, salt and fish sauce (don't be intimidated -- many of these ingredients can be found in local Rochester Asian markets). Simmer 15-20 minutes. Taste for seasoning. Keep broth hot.

In the meantime, soak dry rice noodles in hot water for 10-15 minutes, drain to remove starch. Place cooked noodles, roasted beef tenderloin, lettuce, onion slices and green onion in large soup bowl. Pour hot broth over meat and vegetables. Serve at once. Garnish as desired with lime wedges, Thai basil (regular basil will also work), sliced Thai chilies, bean sprouts or cilantro.

Julie Warner is a chef at the Mayo Clinic Foundation House in Rochester.

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