By Holly Ebel

Post-Bulletin, Rochester MN 

It is not too early to start thinking about Thanksgiving, a day where the menu is pretty much set and any slight change could bring an uprising. However, sometimes it is nice for the cook to introduce something new, such as a pie for dessert.

This is not to suggest eliminating long-time holiday favorites like pumpkin and apple. But consider adding another kind, one that will bring a new spin to the dessert table.

To start, think about the season and what is available. Pears are at their peak in the fall and bake into delicious pies and tarts, either by themselves or paired with another fruit, like apples. There are also cranberries, which add a nice zing to a sweeter pie like pecan. A more unusual but great pie is one using apples, pears and dried fruits like apricots and cranberries. A southern favorite is sweet potato pie, a little bit like a pumpkin pie.

Jennifer Richards-Olson, owner and pastry chef of the Rainbow Cafe in Pine Island (212 Main St., 356-2929), is known for her desserts, especially pies.

"You would be surprised at which pies we sell the most of for Thanksgiving, both by the slice and whole pies that customers order: coconut cream and sour cream raisin," Richards-Olson says.

A particular favorite of hers is a poached pear pie. "I really like using pears and I give this particular pie a crumble topping. People really like it," she says.

What does Richards-Olson think is most important when making a pie? "The crust, first and foremost," she says. "That can make the difference between a great pie and one that is so-so. Always make your own."

To ensure a tasty, flaky crust, Richards-Olson mixes half butter and half shortening in with the flour and salt. "That butter adds great flavor," she says.

She also suggests using crushed ice with the water, which is mixed in small amounts at the end to hold the crust together. "I like having little crushed chips in with the mixture -- it keeps the fats cold," she says.

Richards-Olson also suggests chilling the dough for an hour before rolling it out.

In addition to the crust, there are other things to consider when making a pie. How it looks is important -- it should be pleasing to look at. Any pie should also have a good natural flavor, so use the best ingredients you can get.

Pies should be a good consistency, not runny, and a cream pie should also hold its shape but not be stiff like Jell-O.

Something that can be a big time-saver is making the pies a week or two ahead of time and freezing them. They can be baked, cooled and then wrapped well in plastic wrap followed by two layers of foil. Bring them out a few hours before serving or put them in the refrigerator overnight.

Leave the pies in the pie plate for a quick warm-up before serving. This does not work well with cream pies or pumpkin pies, however. Pumpkin gets weepy because home-freezers do not freeze as hard or fast as commercial ones do.

Holly Ebel is a Rochester freelance writer.

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