Conundrum was born from a core idea: Why couldn't a wine mirror -- in complexity and creativity -- the dishes being invented by a new generation of chefs who had no allegiance to the traditions and rules of the past?

From the first vintage, 1989, winemakers were determined to make a dramatically different white-wine blend that would surpass the scope of single-varietal wines.

Blending several grape varietals together is a centuries-old tradition for both red and white wines. Winemakers learned early on that just a small amount of Cabernet Franc or Merlot could complement and extend the flavors of Cabernet Sauvignon, and that a little Semillon could round and soften the herbal edges of Sauvignon Blanc.

But they wanted to venture into a wider arena.

Just as chefs were exploring the fusion of flavors from classic to contemporary, from east to west, often combining savory, spicy, herbal and fruity flavors in one dish, they wanted to explore how non-traditional combinations of grape varietals would work together. They wanted each varietal to be distinctive but still complementary to the others and to the foods.

After experimenting with 11 different white wine grapes, they chose the three that they considered the key ingredients, the aromas and flavors that form the foundation of the wine: Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and -- for its intriguing floral/tropical character -- Muscat Canelli. Then, from the "spice cabinet," they added small amounts of Semillon and Viognier. Producing flavors and textures that formed a new and unprecedented combination -- a conundrum, or puzzle to be teased out by the taster.

This week's Wine of the Week was submitted by Sam Kolas, general manager at Apollo Wine & Spirits at Maplewood Plaza. If you would like to submit to Wine of the Week, send it to life@postbulletin.com.

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