Slather on flavor while protecting delicate fish

Reach for the mustard and mayonnaise when broiling or baking fish. These two basic condiments provide a subtle flavor boost while protecting delicate fish from toughening or drying out.

Simply spoon roughly equal portions of mayo and mustard in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle in some chopped herbs, fresh or dried. Stir well. Slather the mixture onto the fish, covering any exposed flesh. Cook.

I particularly like this mustard-mayo combo with salmon or swordfish. Given the plushness of the fish, I keep the sides simple: steamed basmati rice and asparagus spears drizzled with olive oil.

Tips:

Herbs that work particularly well with this mustard-mayo mix include tarragon, thyme, oregano, chervil and parsley.

Consumers buying swordfish should ask where the fish was caught and how it was caught in order to make the most ecologically sensitive choice.

This coating also works well on lamb chops and chicken thighs.

Beverage suggestion:

Consider a California chardonnay to accentuate the richness of the fish. Iced tea and or mineral water spiked with lemon are good nonalcoholic alternatives.

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BAKED MUSTARD-MAYO FISH STEAKS

Prep: 5 minutes

Cook: 8 minutes

Makes: 4 servings

2 tablespoons each: mayonnaise, mustard

3 to 6 fresh tarragon leaves, minced

½ teaspoon each: salt, black pepper

4 swordfish or salmon steaks, 6 to 8 ounces each

Lemon wedges

1. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Mix together mayonnaise and mustard in a small bowl; stir in tarragon, salt and pepper. Spread mixture on both sides of the steaks. Place fish on a baking sheet.

2. Bake swordfish, turning once halfway through cooking, 8 minutes. Put the steaks under the broiler to brown, 1 minute, if you like. Serve with lemon wedges.

Nutrition information:

Per serving: 248 calories, 46 percent of calories from fat, 12 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 65 mg cholesterol, 1 g carbohydrates, 32 g protein, 556 mg sodium, 0 g fiber.